Alpha-Hydroxy Acids Enhance Your Skin

It seems like the term "alpha hydroxy acid" comes up whenever skin care is mentioned. AHAs have truly gone mainstream. Almost every skin care product boasts that it contains AHAs. Have you ever wondered what they are, what they actually do, if they are safe, how to use them safely or if they are right for you? You should.

What are AHAs?

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) is a blanket term for a variety of fruit acids such as glycolic, citric, lactic, malic and tartaric. These acids, when used correctly, help to smooth the skin, enhance the effects of other skin rejuvenation treatments, keep problem skin under control, attract moisture to the skin, even the texture and complexion of skin and reverse some of the effects of UV damage. T hey can be used to achieve these goals over a period of time or in quick sessions.

When included in a product at an effective concentration AHAs help disintegrate the "glue" that hold dead, dry skin cells to the surface of the skin. By doing so, the epidermis is exfoliated leaving a silky texture. Removal of this external barrier enables easier, deeper penetration of other skin treatments as well.

Where do AHAs Come From?

Each acid is derived from a different source. While all AHAs share a similar molecular structure, their differences become relevant as to how each is used. Glycolic acid, for instance, is typically used for skin rejuvenation. Citric acid works as an antioxidant and promotes the production of collagen.

These are a few of the most common AHAs used today:

Glycolic Acid

Most people hear the term AHA and immediately think of glycolic acid. This is certainly the most commonly used member of the AHA family for skin rejuvenation. Glycolic acid comes from sugar cane and can also be made synthetically. Its small molecular size allows it to penetrate the skin more easily, which contributes to its effectiveness. Glycolic acid works in a number of ways, primarily through its exfoliation properties. Glycolic acid helps dissolve the "glue" that holds the skin cells together. This leads to exfoliation. In addition, glycolic acid helps reduce the surface skin oils and can help remove blackheads and other skin impurities as well as smooth out fine wrinkle lines. Other benefits of glycolic acid include it's moisturizing ability; the potential for it to help bleach unwanted skin discolouration; and its ability to help draw other skin treatments more deeply into the skin. Glycolic acid also helps to stimulate collagen production within the dermis.

Citric Acid

Citrus fruits serve as the source of this lesser-known skin rejuvenating AHA. Citric Acid acts as an antioxidant and helps to stimulate collagen production in the dermis. It also tends to have a weak activity helping bleach unwanted skin discolouration that often accompanies the aging skin process.

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is derived from sour milk. An ideal skin softener, lactic acid is frequently used by dermatologists to cut through thick, rough skin. Lactic acid works both as an exfoliator and helps to hold water within the skin. Dermatologists originally used it as a skin rejuvenation AHA until studies showed that glycolic acid gave superior results for this use. Lactic acid may be combined with other AHAs to help boost product effectiveness.

Malic Acid

This is a fruit-derived AHA usually made from unripe apples and green grapes. It is rarely used in topical skin products.

Tartaric Acid

This is actually a by-product of the fermentation process that takes place while making wine. Tartaric acid holds a unique position within the food industry, but so far has not been embraced by the cosmetic industry.

Safety

AHAs are safe when used with caution and according to directions. The amount of AHA in the product and the pH are the determining factors of a product's strength and irritation you may experience. Don't forget AHAs ARE acids and too much can cause burning.

Medical strength AHAs start at a concentration of 8%. This is the baseline of where truly effective results will begin to be obvious. When using AHA-containing products purchased at the drug, grocery, or department store, the percentages are generally going to be negligible. The average AHA you may come across will be in the 3% range. If you are entering into a regimen that is more goal and rejuvenation based, there will be an option of strengths to choose from. It is important to start at the lowest strength and work up to the highest, slowly. It's not a race to move up to the highest percentage of acid. Skin rejuvenation is a long-term commitment and if the skin is not acclimatised to the product slowly, irritation will follow.

Many women take it for granted that the use of glycolic acid as a daily product or a chemical peel must result in noticeable redness, dryness and flaking. Some wear these signs like a badge of honor and are sceptical of any product that doesn't cause some suffering. This is not necessary now that buffered glycolic acid products are on the market. Buffering takes the acne and increases the pH without changing the percent concentration. This can result in a 15% buffered glycolic acid being less irritating than the grocery store 3%. The buffering does not make it any less effective. Exfoliation takes place is a less visible manner. In fact, dermatologists may combine the use of these buffered glycolic acids to help boost a rejuvenation regimen that uses products notorious for causing flaking, such as Retin-A or Retinols and by alternating their use every other night, cuts down on the flaking, hydrates the skin and provides an additional active ingredient at the same time.

There has been a trend for some companies or physicians to offer extremely high concentrations of glycolic acid, 40% and up. Some are promoting home peel kits. Some women who have used such products experience significant side effects such as burning, temporary or permanent skin discolouration and even scarring. You cannot be too careful of what you are buying.

Exfoliation due to any product, including AHAs, causes the skin to be more susceptible to the elements and must be protected. Sun protection is always important, but when you are using an exfoliating agent it becomes mandatory. You may also notice that your skin requires additional moisture. If this is the case, try using a cream based AHA (in case you're not) or you may apply a plain moisturizer over your AHA product.

Not too long ago, an article appeared that scared a lot of people regarding AHAs. It was suggested that these products might cause cancer, however within the article, the concerns were really about increased sun burn potential and side effects due to the caustic nature of the acid. There is no evidence of AHAs causing any type of cancer.

Will AHAs be Right for You?

If you feel that your skin is looking dull, lifeless or uneven, using an AHA product may benefit you. As the skin ages, it can lose that lustrous youthful glow. Using an AHA can quickly restore a fresh, healthy appearance. Look for something that is low to moderate in strength and use a sunscreen daily. If you have a sensitive skin condition such as rosacea, you may find that AHAs are not appropriate for your skin as they may increase your redness and/or cause stinging. However, many rosacea patients actually have oily, tougher skin and can tolerate the use of these products. In that case, they can be beneficial for both oil reduction, pore cleansing as well as provide their rejuvenation benefits. If you are using any prescriptions that affect your skin or suffer a specific skin condition such as Rosacea, be sure to check with your prescribing physician.

AHA products are also great for softening rough elbows, knees, hands and feet.

AHAs can help to enhance other treatments such as lightening therapies as well. By ridding the skin of dead cells, the treatment product (such as an acne medication or bleaching agent) is more able to reach the site where it is needed without unnecessary interference.

The next time you see a product that features alpha hydroxy acids, take a minute to ask yourself why you are using it and if it is of any benefit to you.